Image courtest of "The Daily Green".

Collard greens are various leafy greens in the same species that produces cabbage and broccoli. The plant is grown for its large, dark-colored, edible leaves.

Fresh collard leaves can be stored for up to 10 days if refrigerated to just above freezing at high humidity. In domestic refrigerators, fresh collard can be stored for about three days. Once cooked, it can be frozen and stored for greater lengths of time.

Widely considered to be healthy foods, collards are good sources of vitamin C (only when eaten raw, because heat destroys vitamin C) and soluble fiber and contain multiple nutrients with potent anti-cancer properties. Roughly a quarter pound (approx. 100 g) of cooked collards contains 46 calories.

Germination:

• Prepare the seed bed. Your collard greens will grow best in a light, rich, sandy loam with a pH of 5.5 to 6.8. Cultivate the soil thoroughly and deeply (at least 10 inches) since collard roots will grow as much as 2 feet deep. Form the soil into raised rows about 8 inches high and 3 feet apart.
• Sprinkle the tops of the planting rows with a 10-20-10 garden fertilizer. Use your garden rake to mix the fertilizer into the top 4 inches of the soil.
• Sow the collard green seeds in early spring for a summer harvest, or in mid summer for a late autumn harvest. Spread the seeds evenly along the top of each row of the seed bed. Ultimately your collard plants will be 18 inches apart, but collard seeds are small and hard to dispense evenly, so spread the collard seeds a little more densely; you will thin them later.
• Cover the seeds with ½ inch of soil.
• Water the planted collard seeds by sprinkling, so as not to disturb the covered seeds. Keep the seed bed slightly moist until germination. The seeds will germinate in 6 to 12 days.
• Continue to water the collards evenly, about 1.5 inches of water every seven to ten days. Drip irrigation works well for home gardens.
• Thin the seedlings to 6 inches apart when they are about 2 inches tall.
• Pull weeds from the collard green bed regularly throughout the growing season.
• Fertilize the collard greens again with a 10-20-10 garden fertilizer if you notice that the plants begin to look pale.
• Thin the plants again, to 18 inches apart, when leaves of adjacent plants touch. The young harvested plants are good for eating or may be transplanted to another area of the garden.
• Harvest the collard greens continuously by cutting the outer leaves when they are about 12 inches tall, leaving the inner three layers of leaves to continue growing. Or harvest the entire plant at the end of the growing season; in this case the tough outer leaves will not be good for eating, so discard them. In frost free climates or climates that have only light frost, collards may produce throughout the entire winter.

Storing:

• Short Term:  Refrigerate in a plastic bag; do not wash until you are ready to use.
• Long Term:
  • Wash greens thoroughly.
  • Cut off woody stems.
  • Blanch in boiling water for 3 minutes.
  • Chill in ice-water for 5 minutes.
  • Drain off excess moisture and pat dry.
  • Package in air-tight containers or freezer bags.
  • Freeze immediately.
  • Use within 10-12 months.

Try this yummy recipe:

Collard Greens Braised

1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 Tablespoon butter
1 leek or 1 small onion, chopped
1 bunch collard greens, stemmed and chopped (rinsed well first of course)
½ cup vegetable or chicken broth
1-2 teaspoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch red pepper flakes
1 Tablespoon mild vinegar: champagne or cider

Heat 1 Tablespoon oil in large sauce pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Saute onion until soft, 3-4 minutes. Add half of the greens, broth, sugar, salt, and cayenne. Cover and cook until greens are beginning to wilt, about 1 minute. Stir in remaining greens and cook, covered, stirring occasionally over med low heat until quite tender, about 30 minutes. Remove lid and cook over med high heat until liquid is almost evaporated, about 5-10 minutes. Off heat, stir in butter, vinegar, and serve.

Storing:

• Store zucchini for use in the near future without washing it first. The vegetable will spoil much faster if it is bruised or punctured, so the less handling, the better.
• Put whole zucchini in a plastic bag and place in a cool area of the kitchen. If the weather is very hot, keep the zucchini in the refrigerator for 4 to 7 days.
• Store zucchini in the freezer for use at a later date or for baking. Be aware that its texture will become softer and mushier after freezing.  See below how to properly store in the freezer.

Storing in the freezer:

• Cut slices of zucchini,
• Bring water to a boil in a large pot on the stove.
• Blanch the zucchini slices in the boiling water for three minutes.
• Remove from the boiling water directly into a bowl of ice-water and leave it for 5 minutes.
• Pat dry and freeze in a plastic bag or other airtight container. Make sure you label the container with the contents and date prepared.
• Frozen zucchini can keep for about 4 months before it starts to lose its flavor.

Image courtesy of "Time In The Kitchen"

Kale is a form of cabbage, green or purple, in which the central leaves do not form a head. It is considered to be closer to wild cabbage than most domesticated forms.

Kale is considered to be a highly nutritious vegetable with powerful antioxidant properties and it is considered to be anti-inflammatory.

Kale is very high in beta carotene, vitamin K, vitamin C, lutein, zeaxanthin, and reasonably rich in calcium.

Kale, as with broccoli and other brassicas, contains sulforaphane (particularly when chopped or minced), a chemical believed to have potent anti-cancer properties.

Until the end of the Middle Ages, kale was one of the most common green vegetables in all of Europe.

Kale is actually on of the few leafy vegetables that freezes well and actually tastes sweeter and more flavourful after being exposed to a frost.

Tender kale greens can provide an intense addition to salads, particularly when combined with other such strongly-flavoured ingredients as dry-roasted peanuts, tamari-roasted almonds, redpepper flakes, or an Asian-style dressing.

Germinating:

• Plant in full sun.
• Kale can be direct seeded in the garden or started indoors and set out as transplants. Start plants indoors about 6 weeks before your last expected frost date. Kale seeds germinate quickly in warm soil and should be up within 5 – 8 days.
• Cover seeds with about ½ inch of soil and don’t allow the seeds to dry out before germinating. Plants will grow more slowly outdoors than indoors under lights.
• Transplant seedlings after danger of frost. Set plants out with about 16″ spacing between plants. This gives them room to spread out and still allows for air circulation. (Although you want to wait for the winter frost to subside before transplanting a touch of frost will make the Kale sweeter).
• You can harvest very young leaves to use fresh in salads or allow plants to mature and use as a cooked green.
• Harvest older leaves by removing the larger, outer leaves and allowing the center of the plant to continue producing. Kale will be good throughout the summer months.
• Kale prefers cool temperatures and will be sweetened by a touch of frost.
• Optimal soil temperature is 60-65 degrees F.
• Hot weather, will make the Kale bitter.
• Kale plants like to grow in a rich soil, high in organic matter and slightly acidic (5.5 – 6.5 pH). You’re growing it for the foliage, so a high nitrogen content is good.
• Keep your kale plants well watered. Along with cool temperatures, moist soil helps keep kale leaves sweet and crisp, rather than tough and bitter. Side dressing throughout the growing season with compost or feeding with fish emulsion will keep your kale growing. Mulch is important to keep the ground cool.

Note: You can direct seed in cold climates, in the spring, as soon as the soil can be worked and the soil temperature is at least 45 degrees F. Kale matures quickly, in about 2 months or less, so if you prefer you can start your plants later or even plant multiple crops in succession. In warm climates, kale can be direct seeded in late summer / early fall, as well as in the spring. A winter crop of kale in warmer climates can be much sweeter than a summer crop.

Chives are the smallest species of the onion family and are native to Europe, Asia and North America. Chives are also the only species of Allium native to both the New and the Old World and it is a perennial (So that’s why it came up again and I swore I hadn’t planted it again… I’m not going crazy.)

Culinary uses for chives involve shredding its leaves (straws) for use as condiment for fish, potatoes and soups. Because of this, it is a common household herb, frequent in gardens as well as in grocery stores. It also has insect-repelling properties which can be used in gardens to control pests from your other plants.  A plus is that they attract bees, a plus if you want your garden well pollinated.

The medical properties of chives are similar to those of garlic, but weaker; the faint effects in comparison with garlic are probably the main reason for its limited use as a medicinal herb. Chives are reported to have a beneficial effect on the circulatory system. As chives are usually served in small amounts and never as the main dish, negative effects are rarely encountered.

Chives are also rich in vitamins A and C, contain trace amounts of sulfur, and are rich in calcium and iron.

Cultivation

Chives are cultivated both for their culinary uses and their ornamental value; the violet flowers are often used in ornamental dry bouquets.

Chives thrive in well drained soil, rich in organic matter, with a pH of 6-7 and full sun.

Chives can be grown from seed and mature in summer, or early the following spring. Typically, chives need to be germinated at a temperature of 15 °C to 20 °C and kept moist. They can also be planted under a cloche or germinated indoors in cooler climates, then planted out later. After at least four weeks, the young shoots should be ready to be planted out.

In cold regions, chives die back to the underground bulbs in winter, with the new leaves appearing in early spring.

Chives starting to look old can be cut back to about 2–5 cm. When harvesting, the needed number of stalks should be cut to the base. During the growing season, the plant will continually regrow leaves, allowing for a continuous harvest.

Storing:

Chives can be stored multiple ways; Freezing and Dehydrating.

Dehydrating:

• Wash and pat dry your chives.
• Chop them to the appropriate size that you want them (I chop mine fine, but not so thin that they crumble or that you can’t tell what they are).
• Lay the chives in a thin layer on your dehydrator trays.
• Turn on your dehydrator to the herb setting or the lowest temperature that you have.
• When the chives are done dehydrating transfer them to air tight containers for storage.

Freezing:

Freezing chives is a very easy way to store them and make them seem almost fresh even if it is January when you are using them.  Not only is this simple, but it is fun… especially for kids also.

• Wash your chives.
• Cut them into small pieces to fit inside ice cube trays.
• sprinkle the chives into the ice cube trays.
• Fill the trays with water and place them in your freezer.
• When the cube have frozen all the way through, remove the cubes from the trays and place them into freezer safe storage containers or zip-lock bags.
• When you are ready for fresh Chives remove a couple of cubes and thaw them.  Your Chives will test just as fresh as the day you put them in the freezer.

If you’re growing Scarlet Runner Beans, your’re growing an edible ornamental. That’s right! It’s grown as a flowering plant and as a vegetable.

Scarlet Runner beans, and other varieties of runner beans, are easy to grow. It’s fast growing, climbing up to ten feet in a season. Plants will produce a profusion of pretty red and white flowers, amidst a heavy cover of leaves.

The runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus, Fabaceae) is often called the scarlet runner bean since most varieties have red flowers and multicolored seeds. It differs from the common bean in several respects: the cotyledons stay in the ground during germination, and the plant is a perennial vine with tuberous roots (though it is usually treated as an annual).

The green pods are edible whole but in some varieties (the scarlet runner) tend to become fibrous early, and only the seeds within are eaten. The seeds can be used fresh or as dried beans.

Fun Tip: In the UK, the flowers are often ignored, or treated as an attractive bonus to cultivating the plant for the beans, whereas in the US the scarlet runner is widely grown for its attractive flowers by people who would never think of eating it.

Fun Tip 2: The flower is known as a favourite of Hummingbirds.

Fun Tip 3: Scarlet Runner Beans are easy to dry and then use next year in the garden to grow your own plants.  Think about growing your own seedlings, this is a great thing, especially if you have kids and you want to show them the entire process of germination all the way to harvesting.

Fun Tip 4: If you have kids a fun thing to do is to use long poles and lean them into a tee-pee fashion, leaving an opening for kids to crawl through.  The Scarlet Runner Beans will grow up the poles and create a great summer fort for the kids.

How to Grow and Harvest:

• Scarlet Runner Bean are grown from seeds. Germination is quick. In warm soil, they can emerge in under a week. Sow seeds directly into the garden after the last frost in your area.
• Grow Scarlet Runner Bean in full sun. Plants prefer a rich, soil. Adding compost prior to planting, will help them to grow quickly to their full potential.
  • A firm moisture retentive soil is best for growing runner beans. Dig in plenty of organic matter during autumn or winter. Fill trenches one spit deep with garden compost to plant in rows; add in bucket fulls for maypoles or wigwams.
  • Soaked newspapers (or leaf mold) layed on the bottom help to retain moisture. Shredded Comfrey leaves can boost flowers and fruit. Gently firm down as you add material.
  • Don’t add Nitrogen rich fertilizer e.g. no manure… Nitrogen fixing bacterial grow in root nodules of beans. Some gardeners have achieved very good results from soil inoculating.
  • A very small sprinkling of Fish, Blood and Bone fertilizer around each hole will help to establish plants.
  • Shallow and dry, usually sandy acidic soils, are not normally ideal, neither are poorly drained sites. But trench composting on well-drained sites and over sandy soil can be followed by growing runner beans.
  • Semi-shaded sites are better than full sun. Hot summer days and irregular water content cause fruit set problems and poor development e.g. wilted, waisted or curved pods etc… If you have a seep hose then this could be a convenient place to install it. Bury it several inches. But it won’t make up for poor soil water retention.
  • Before planting out double rows thoroughly water and lay a 2 foot wide strip of black polythene mulch to finish. This retains moisture and solves the weed problem.
• Scarlet Runner Beans require something to climb. Plant them along a fence or trellis. Trellises are a great way to display this attractive, flowering ornamental. After the blooming period, the beans will be accessible to harvest right from the trellis. In the vegetable garden, fences and bamboo poles are most often used.
• Add ample amounts of water and fertilizer. The plants need both, to reach maximum growth. Just before the blooming period, apply a fertilizer high in phosphorous, to promote blooms.
• Weed around the plants, especially while bean plants are young. Once they begin to climb, weeds will not block valuable sunlight. But, they will continue to compete for moisture and nutrients. A heavy layer of mulch around the plants will look good, and keep weeds down.
• All bean plants are annuals that are very susceptible to frost. Cover them up whenever cold temperatures are expected.
• After the flowers have bloomed, bean pods will begin to grow.  If picked very young, the pods are edible. They get tough and stringy very quickly.
• Most people who grow runner beans for the beans, will eat just the beans. Beans can be eaten raw or cooked.  They can be used fresh, dried, or frozen.
• Picking beans continuously, will promote new flowers and more beans!

Insects, Pests, and Disease:

Most varieties of beans are susceptible to a variety of insects, most notably beetles. They can be effectively treated with insecticides.

Bunnies love beans! Rabbits eat the the tender new leaves. If there are rabbits in your area, a rabbit fence is not a nicety, it is a necessity. They will devastate a row of beans in a hurry, eating the tender new leaves. As new ones develop, they will come back for more.

Deer also love to nip leaves of beans. If deer are a problem in your area, they will be a problem with your runner beans.  Fencing or pest netting is the most effective control.

Fungus diseases are a frequent problem in wet or humid weather. Use a fungicide as needed.  Keeping the leaves dry, and avoiding overcrowding will help to keep disease from getting a start.

STORING:

Dry bean pods until they are shriveled and hard.  Remove the beans from the pods and store them in a cool and dry place, so you can enjoy them the whole year!

Image courtesy of MarthaStewart.com

Ten years ago, Rhett and I had just graduated from college and we had our first “real life” apartment, versus the campus married housing that we had lived in.  We were excited to have a nice little patio and decided that it would be perfect to get some large pots and make our first garden…

So what did we grow you ask? We grew our three favorite things, Roses (pink ones), Tomatoes and Sugar Snap Peas… Yummm.

If you enjoy eating fresh vegetables from your own garden then Sugar Snap Peas is a perfect food to grow.  They are delicious and easy to grow.  The best thing about them is that if you do not like to have to shell bushels and bushels of pea pods then these are perfect.  With these vegetables, you get to eat the entire pea pod with the sweet little peas nestled inside.  The pods are sweet, crisp, juicy and have a wonderful crunch.

My favorite way to eat them is fresh, straight from the garden.

Helpful Hint: Sugar Snap Peas have “strings”, much like the ones on celery. To remove them, pinch one tip of the pea to get hold of the string. Pull it up the straight side toward the stem end, then pinch it off.

So, let’s go over how to grow these tasty vegetables.

1. Sugar Snap Peas enjoy cool weather growing conditions and can be planted during early spring, with a second crop planted during late summer for a fall harvest.
2. Sow the seeds about an inch deep.
   • Some recommend that you should treat the seeds with a nitrogen fixing inoculent designed for peas. The inoculent isn’t required but will help improve growth, result in higher yields, and increase the nitrogen levels “fixed” in your garden’s soil. The inoculant contains a natural bacteria and can be purchased at garden centers or organic gardening suppliers and seed companies on the Internet.
3. Sugar Snap Peas will grow well in raised beds, the biggest challenge is to space them out evenly. One planting technique is to lay all the seeds out on top of the prepared bed using the desired spacing pattern and the go back and use a finger to press the seeds to the proper depth.
4. The peas will quickly germinate and begin growing so you should be prepared to provide some type of support to hold the plants upright as they grow taller. The dwarf varieties that only grow a foot or two in height will do fine without additional support from fencing, stakes, or trellis material.
5. Aside from weeding and watering when needed, there’s not much routine maintenance required to raise your crop of Sugar Snap Peas. The pea vines grow very fast and within a few weeks of planting you will notice blossoms that will quickly be followed by the developing pods.
6. Harvest the Sugar Snap Peas when the pods are plump and have reached full size but to enjoy the best flavor don’t allow them to over mature or start to shrivel and dry out on the vines.

Sugar Snap Peas are wonderful when they are cooked by steaming or sauteing them.  I love them in Stir Fry.

Note:  In addition to the pea pods you can also harvest and enjoy eating the flower blossoms and leafy plant tips or pea shoots. Just be sure that you don’t attempt to eat any portion of the varieties of ”sweet peas” that are grown as ornamental flowers and are not edible.

STORING:

You can store sugar snap peas in a plastic bag for up to three days.  Any longer and they begin to dry out and lose some of their flavor.

Long Term Storage:  Sugar Snap Peas must be blanched before storing in the freezer. To blanch, add 4 quarts of water to a pot and bring to a boil. While water is heating, prepare the pods by pinching off the ends and pull to remove the strings along the seams of the pods before eating or freezing.  Add 2 to 3 cups of pea pods to the boiling water and cover. Time for exactly 2 minutes and remove promptly from heat. Drain off water and place the pea pods immediately in a bowl of ice water for 2 minutes. Remove from bowl and dry pea pods on paper towels. Place snow peas or sugar snap peas into freezer bags or containers, seal, label and store in freezer.

Camping is one of the most beloved and sought after summer events.  People love camping for a variety of reasons, but no matter who you are you must eat while you are out in the wild and untamed wilderness. Camping food is often one of the main reasons people go camping, and I am not talking about he hot dogs and sm’ores.  Some campers are A#1 great chefs.

Just take Rhett, for instance, whenever he takes those scouts on a camping trip and they are all supposed to pack their own food the boys end up with Chex Mix and a can of soup, whereas Rhett creates tin foil dinners, dutch oven cobbler, fried eggs and potatoes, beef jerky and all other goodies, not forgetting the smores.

The boys wonder how he does it, and now a few of them have even caught on enough to ask Rhett to help them plan their menus and prepare their own food.  But no matter if it is Rhett or one of the youth we always make sure we teach them how to properly store the food to make sure it does not go bad.  If they are not willing to do this then we tell them to break out that Chex Mix and canned soup because if not, they will be SICK!

Taking food int he hot summer fun takes some preparation.  here are some helpful hints:

1. You number one most important item is the cooler.  If you are camping by driving your vehicle then this is easier than backpacking with the scouts.  Using a cooler do the following:
   • Freeze drinks before leaving so that they stay cold longer.
   • Separate the drinks that you frequently get in and out of the cooler for from your food items. It will keep the food cold longer.
   • Use block ice instead of crushed and cubed ice.  It stays cold longer.
     • To save money on block ice freeze water in old (cleaned out) milk jugs.  They will stay frozen a long time and the water, once melted is mostly contained (except for condensation) so it will not get all over your food.
2. If you are hiking and cannot carry a huge cooler you need to make sure your food is precooked and then use insulated individual containers with baggies of ice. Try eating this food first and then resort to Chex Mix and Canned Soup for the duration of the event.
3. Separate your food as much as possible, using individual sealable baggies and small airtight storage containers.

Lastly, make sure that you get rid of your garbage on a regular basis if not it will attract animals and rodents.

Have a great time and keep that food safe!

Emmaline

How can I ensure that my food is safely prepared?

Botulism (from the Botulinum Spore), is a deadly form of food poisoning that is caused by growth of bacteria on food.  Botulism exists as spores or cells; the spores can survive for many years in soil and be harmless, however when the proper conditions exist those spores reproduce into cells which multiply very quickly.  All of those cells combined create a deadly toxin.

This environment is most common in a moist, low acidic food at a temperature of 40° to 120°F and that has an oxygen level of less than 2%.

Botulinum spores are found on most fresh food, but because they can not grow with oxygen or high acidic levels they are harmless.  These spores, in addition to other bacterias, molds and yeasts are very hard to remove from food surfaces.  You get rid of very few of these spores by washing your food alone.  If a product is grown underground then you can reduce a great number of them by peeling and/or blanching, but that still does not get rid of all of them.  The only way to ensure that you are safe from them is to make sure that you follow the proper directions and processing times of all food types.  The best resource for this is the USDA’s Complete Guide to Home Canning.

The processing times in this book ensure destruction of the largest expected number of heat-resistant microorganisms in home-canned foods. Properly sterilized canned food will be free of spoilage if lids seal and jars are stored below 95°F. Storing jars at 50° to 70°F enhances retention of quality.

Whether food should be processed in a pressure canner or boiling-water canner to control botulinum bacteria depends on the acidity of the food. Acidity may be natural, as in most fruits, or added, as in pickled food. Low-acid canned foods are not acidic enough to prevent the growth of these bacteria. Acid foods contain enough acid to block their growth, or destroy them more rapidly when heated. The term “pH” is a measure of acidity; the lower its value, the more acid the food. The acidity level in foods can be increased by adding lemon juice, citric acid, or vinegar.

Low-acid foods have pH values higher than 4.6. They include red meats, seafood, poultry, milk, and all fresh vegetables except for most tomatoes. Most mixtures of low-acid and acid foods also have pH values above 4.6 unless their recipes include enough lemon juice, citric acid, or vinegar to make them acid foods. Acid foods have a pH of 4.6 or lower. They include fruits, pickles, sauerkraut, jams, jellies, marmalade’s, and fruit butters.

Although tomatoes usually are considered an acid food, some are now known to have pH values slightly above 4.6. Figs also have pH values slightly above 4.6. Therefore, if they are to be canned as acid foods, these products must be acidified to a pH of 4.6 or lower with lemon juice or citric acid. Properly acidified tomatoes and figs are acid foods and can be safely processed in a boiling-water canner.

Botulinum spores are very hard to destroy at boiling-water temperatures; the higher the canner temperature, the more easily they are destroyed. Therefore, all low-acid foods should be sterilized at temperatures of 240° to 250°F, attainable with pressure canners operated at 10 to 15 PSIG. PSIG means pounds per square inch of pressure as measured by gauge. The more familiar “PSI” designation is used hereafter in this publication (the Complete Guide to Home Canning). At temperatures of 240° to 250°F, the time needed to destroy bacteria in low-acid canned food ranges from 20 to 100 minutes.

The exact time depends on the kind of food being canned, the way it is packed into jars, and the size of jars. The time needed to safely process low-acid foods in a boiling-water canner ranges from 7 to 11 hours; the time needed to process acid foods in boiling water varies from 5 to 85 minutes.

Acidity of Foods
Process adjustments at high altitudes.

Boiling Point Of Water (Image from HFP)

Using the process time for canning food at sea level may result in spoilage if you live at altitudes of 1,000 feet or more. Water boils at lower temperatures as altitude increases. Lower boiling temperatures are less effective for killing bacteria. Increasing the process time or canner pressure compensates for lower boiling temperatures. Therefore, when you use the Complete Guide to Home Canning, select the proper processing time or canner pressure for the altitude where you live. If you do not know the altitude, contact your local county Extension agent. An alternative source of information would be the local district conservationist with the Soil Conservation Service.

Most people realize that canning is a lot like baking, you must adjust your canning time based on the altitude of where you live.

Fruits and vegetables can be safely canned in a boiling water bath or pressure cooker. However, because the temperature of boiling water is lower at higher elevations, you need to increase the processing time.  For example, water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit up to 1,000 feet elevation; at 203 degrees F at 5,000 feet; and 194 degrees F at 10,000 feet.

The lower boiling point temperatures that result at higher altitudes mean that foods might not be getting heated up enough to be safely stored when you attempt to preserve them at higher elevations. This is corrected by increasing the amount of time that the jars spend in the boiling water bath. When you use a pressure canner, you adjust for altitude by increasing the pressure and sometimes the time.

For altitudes of 1,000 feet or less use the base canning processing time listed on your recipe, however if you live at altitudes above 1,000 feet use the following chart to adjust your processing time.

Preserving Food Using Canning:

Most fresh foods are very perishable, they spoil and mold because they have a high percentage of water.  In addition, they will also lose their quality.

Microorganisms such as bacteria, mold and yeast live and multiply quickly on the surfaces of fresh food.  In addition, they live and multiply on the inside of bruised, insect-damaged, and diseased food. Oxygen and enzymes are present throughout fresh food tissues which reduce moisture in food and make it wilt and dry.

In order to be sure that you get the best prepared food be sure to follow these canning procedures:

• Carefully select fresh food that is not bruised or wilted.
• Wash the food in order to be sure that it is clean and ready to be canned.
• If the food has spores that has the potential to collect bacteria be sure to peel it.
• Hot packing foods as a general rule kills more bacteria than cold packing.
• Adding acids (lemon juice or vinegar) to some foods will keep them from browning and also increase the acidic value to preserve better.
• Be sure to use sterilized jars and self-sealing lids.
• Processing jars in a boiling waterbath or pressure canner for the correct period of time.

If you follow all of the proper canning practices and procedures will get you a better food for your family to enjoy.  These procedures will remove the excess oxygen, destroy harmful enzymes and prevent the growth and multiplication of bacteria, yeasts and molds.

Information from United States Department of Agriculture: Complete Guide to Home Canning